![]() You can always tidy up wire, but you can’t really make it longer without extra solder joints. Make sure that you leave extra length from the connector to where you cut. You will need to cut the original wires off from the original hotend. I have years of electrical engineering training and are good with a soldering iron. If so, look to get different connectors to connect the wires together. If you are not comfortable with soldering, the next steps might not be for you. Reset the tensioner so that the belt is tight.ĭisconnect the 4 connections for the hotend (Heater, Thermistor, Cooling Fan, Part Cooling Fan) where they connect to the cables coming out of the control block at the base. Reconnect the belt on the left side of the carriage. When you are done, the Hemera should be hanging on the carriage and move freely back and forth. They're a lot of videos on how to do this for Creality printers. Set the tension of the rollers using the eccentric nut. Place the Hemera mount and Hemera onto the carriage plate and reassemble the rollers. You need to do this as the Hemera mount makes getting that belt connected almost impossible. I will not give specific screw lengths as you need to make sure as I just said that you use the correct length and don’t bust off the stepper motor tabs.Ĭonnect the right-hand side of the carriage back to the belt. I used M3 pan head screws but had to adjust my length due to poor print quality of my mount because of my hotend issues. Pay attention that you are using the correct length so that you don’t overstress the tabs and break them off. Now insert M3 screws through the 3D printed Hemera mount into the nuts in the stepper motor tabs. Use some blue painters’ tape to tape them in place so they don’t fall out. Insert the two roller bolts into the Hemera mount. Remove the top two guide wheels, which should allow you to take the carriage off the rail. Remove the belts from each end of the hotend carriage. ![]() Loosen the tensioner on the left side of the printer rail. If you need help see this video: ( )Īssemble the Hemera per the E3D Instructions. Fixed Torque Handle ( ) I printed the 3Nm handle to set the torque of the nozzle per E3D instructions. Front Bar Relocator ( ) I found this useful to drop the front bar and make more room for the print head. Filament Guide ( ) I modeled this to bring the filament to the top of the printer and let it be pulled in by the Hemera.į. Filament Guide ( ) I have an enclosure from 3D Upfitters and need to turn the filament direction.Į. I'm now using this fan duct with much better performance.5015 Fans ( ) I’m not sure I’m happy with this fan. Hemera Cooling Duct ( ) This might not be the best cooling duct, but it’s what I have started with.Ĭ. Hemera mount ( ) This works for both BL Touch and EZABL. Print all the 3D parts before you do anything to your printer.Ī. First you will need a series of parts.So here are a series of steps that I took: So because of the quality, and that I wanted to get into flexible filaments, I purchased the E3D Hemera install it on my printer. I cleaned out the hotend and got everything flowing again, but I could not get my quality back. I redid all the calibrations, but my quality continued to go down. I did all the configurations listed here in the stickied FAQ.īut as time went by, it seemed like my quality was getting worse. ![]() But I always had a lot of trouble with stringing. I had reasonably decent quality with the standard stock extruder and hotend. I have had a Ender 5 Pro since about June 2020 that is mostly stock with the exception that I added a TH3D EZABL in October. ![]()
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